What we repair on electric doors
Motors and gearing
A motor that hums but does not move, runs without moving the door or has gone completely dead may need a new gear, belt, chain or drive unit. We diagnose it before replacing anything.
Control boards
Power surges, damp and age can damage the control board. Symptoms include flashing error lights, a door that moves on its own or one that will not respond at all.
Safety sensors
Photocells across the opening stop the door if something is in the way. If they are dirty, knocked out of line or faulty, the door will refuse to close or will reverse.
Remotes and receivers
We replace lost or broken handsets, re-pair remotes, fit keypads and repair receivers when a door no longer responds from the car.
Limit and force settings
If the door stops short, closes too hard or reverses on its own, its travel limits or force settings may need resetting — often after a power cut or a repair.
Manual release
A manual release that is stiff, broken or will not re-engage is a safety issue. We repair it so you can always open the door if the power fails.
Repair or new automation?
This page is for electric doors that already exist and have developed a fault. If you want to motorise a manual door or replace the whole door with an automatic one, see electric garage doors and automation.
For mechanical faults — springs, cables, panels and doors off their tracks — go to our main garage door repair page. In practice the two often overlap: a motor struggling to lift the door can be the first sign of a weak spring, and we check the whole door, not just the electrics.
Checks you can do first
Check the socket or fused spur has power and that nothing else on the circuit has tripped. Try the wall button as well as the remote; if the button works and the remote does not, the remote battery or pairing is the likely fault.
Look at the safety sensors near the bottom of the opening. Wipe the lenses and check both indicator lights are on. Remove anything in the doorway, including leaves or a bin that has blown in.
Our problem guides go into more detail on a garage door motor not working, a garage door remote not working and garage door safety sensor problems.
When to stop and call us
Stop using the door if it is moving unevenly, making grinding or banging noises, hanging lower on one side or if you heard a loud bang before it stopped. Those point to a mechanical fault, and running the motor can make it worse.
Tell us what the door is doing, any lights or codes on the motor unit, and the make if you know it. That helps us bring the right parts.
Electric garage door repair questions
- Why has my electric garage door stopped working?
- Start with the simple things: power to the socket or fused spur, the remote battery, and whether the manual release has been pulled. If those are fine, the usual causes are blocked or misaligned safety sensors, lost limit settings, a failed control board or a worn motor gear. A broken spring can also stop an electric door, because the motor is not built to lift the full weight.
- Can you repair any make of garage door motor?
- We repair the garage door operators commonly fitted in Northern Ireland, including those on Hörmann, Garador and Novoferm doors. If a motor is obsolete and parts are no longer available, we can fit a compatible replacement operator.
- How do I open an electric garage door in a power cut?
- Most electric doors have a manual release, usually a cord or lever on the motor carriage or an external key release. Releasing it disconnects the motor so the door can be lifted by hand. Only do this with the door fully closed, as a door with a broken spring can drop when released.
Ready to book?
Send us the details on our enquiry form or call us — we're open 24 hours, 7 days a week.